Food is identity. This becomes evident in our daily acts related to eating and, naturally, takes on special symbolism during the Day of the Dead.
Humans operate through symbols. This is how we find our bearings in the world. Symbols, in the context of ritual activities such as the Day of the Dead celebration, do not remain static; they change over time. Thus, even if we do not realize it or cannot see it within our lifetime, traditions are dynamic: they incorporate elements, remove others, rearrange them… including, of course, the Day of the Dead festivities.
One element that persists in the celebration of the dead is the presence of food. In this sense, changes have also occurred around it. The food placed on the altar, representing the preferences of the deceased, remains, because fundamentally, food defines us. Have you ever thought about what food or dishes you would like to have on your altar? From tacos to mole with chicken and rice, many of us today would surely include dishes, preparations, ingredients, or entire meals that reference other cultures and latitudes. For some purists, a plate of sushi on the Day of the Dead altar might seem an affront to tradition. However, this is merely a sign of the times: perhaps our grandparents never tasted sushi, but due to geopolitical and economic changes in the world, sushi is now part of the culinary repertoire of many Mexicans who, by preferring it, do not cease to be Mexican.
The change in the elements that make up a tradition is determined by the socio-historical conditions of an era. If we could travel back to colonial times, we might recognize certain elements indicating a Day of the Dead celebration. Yet, it is highly probable that we would not recognize some of the smaller components of the festivities from those times.
For example, until no more than 30 years ago, the pan de muerto made in Mexico did not have fillings of pastry cream, hazelnut cream—which is of Italian postwar origin—nor chocolate or matcha tea cream. Nowadays, these breads can be found as early as August. Rather than being scandalized by these changes or becoming purists, the fact is that they exist in the market because there is demand that combines innovation with tradition, but also individualizes the bread to suit each person's tastes and needs. This process of individualization is not only about food preferences, but is a macro process that has been developing for years in many other aspects of social life.
The parade of catrinas with their respective costumes—the act of dressing up draws inspiration from Halloween—the staging of the Day of the Dead for foreign audiences, and the exportation of this tradition, undoubtedly awaken many interests. That one of the largest animation studios dedicates a film inspired by this tradition is no coincidence. Like it or not, these are signs of the times, in which some traditions are folklorized to be exportable and, in some cases, even profitable.
@Lilllie_ML
Originally published in El Economista
#traditions #innovations #festivefood #rituals #ritual #dayofthedead
— This article was originally published in Spanish by Liliana Martínez Lomelí. Translation generated with AI from the original text.