On May 6th, King Charles III's coronation will take place in the United Kingdom. As expected, controversies surround the ceremony's cost, the ritual, and the monarchy's current role for the British. Beyond all this, food and everything related to it are also present in these debates. Around the ceremony, official commemorative recipes and dishes have been created.
For example, Buckingham Palace released a series of "coronation recipes" developed by celebrity chefs to commemorate the day, aiming for Britons to prepare them as part of the menu they will eat at home for the coronation.
These so-called "official recipes" include lamb with an Asian-style marinade, eggplants with yogurt, shrimp tacos with pineapple sauce, and for dessert, English trifle with strawberries and ginger. These dishes were developed by English chefs of various backgrounds. Clearly, behind the selection of these recipes lies a political message appealing to diversity of origins: while an English-origin recipe is included, the reinterpretation of shrimp tacos (quite distant from what one might find in a coastal restaurant in Mexico) and the Asian marinade could be read as an attempt to include cuisines from different origins, in a country that represented one of the greatest colonial powers, with all the negative implications that had for its colonies.
On the other hand, although regional cuisine can be potentially interesting anywhere in the world, outside the United Kingdom, English food is perceived as bland or even unappetizing, especially by its historical enemies, the French. Many people interpreted that the choice of the official menu had to take elements from other parts of the world because the national cuisine does not satisfy palates. Most likely, this debate needs to move away from nationalisms, but the selection of a commemorative menu for an official event is always subject to such interpretations.
In addition to the recipes, Buckingham Palace also developed a "Quiche Le Reign," which is a savory tart of French origin with spinach, tarragon, broad beans, and Cheddar cheese. It was developed at the Palace by the royal chef together with the king and queen consort. This dish is intended to be the emblem of the coronation, just as "Coronation Chicken" was for Queen Elizabeth II's coronation and became the United Kingdom's signature chicken salad, available today even in ready-to-eat sandwiches. However, the quiche was criticized amid a period of egg shortages and food price inflation in the UK. There were also nationalist readings questioning why it was a French-origin quiche instead of a typical English savory pie.
Given all these interpretations, it seems very difficult for the influence that Charles III could exert on organic and local food to truly reach popular classes. Even in the United Kingdom, many people do not have access to organic foods.
In the end, criticisms of food practices related to the monarchy will always be imbued with readings about colonialism, privilege, or even the function of the institution itself.
— This article was originally published in Spanish by Liliana Martínez Lomelí. Translation generated with AI from the original text.
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