Last week, the 5th World Forum of Mexican Gastronomy was held at the National Forum of the Arts. This is a space for the exchange of experiences and knowledge of Mexican gastronomy by its main actors.
Within the framework of this event, a competition was held featuring dishes prepared by traditional cooks, a group of women from different states of the Republic who represent Mexican culinary heritage. There were also women chefs present at the event, which led me to reflect not only on the difference between the terms “cook” and “chef,” but also on the place of women in the world of gastronomy.
Historically, the professional kitchen has been an area dominated by men, since at the outset, women’s professional activity was relegated to household tasks—paradoxically, including cooking—and everything belonging to the public sphere and professional work was considered a male domain. Even in the 1950s and 60s, many professional chefs, without any scientific basis, claimed that certain technical skills in the kitchen could only be achieved by men.
Today, these barriers have gradually been broken down, but in professional kitchens, as in social life, gender inequality persists. It is well known among chefs that entering a professional kitchen often means stepping into a male-dominated territory, where by “tradition” women are exposed to harassment, innuendo, and sexually charged language. Many are subjected to “initiation rituals,” which involve being assigned heavier and more unpleasant tasks, longer work hours, or pranks that can affect what they prepare.
Although it is now more common to find women among the world’s celebrity chefs, there is still a significant bias in the perception of the originality and capability of a woman chef compared to a male chef. Even in an effort to close this gap, there is a list of the world’s 50 best women chefs, created by the same brand that ranks the 50 best restaurants. Is it necessary to have this special quota for women chefs? In a world where equal job opportunities, professional advancement, and salaries do not depend on gender, is it necessary to dedicate a list to women chefs? The day such distinctions are no longer needed will be the day equity is truly incorporated as something that requires no special mention. Meanwhile, some advocate for their existence.
Regarding the distinction between being a woman chef and a woman cook, some argue that the difference lies in the fact that while the cook learns from traditional knowledge passed down through generations, being a woman chef implies academic training in technique, as well as in other areas. This certainly holds true, until one examines the professional trajectories of some famous male chefs and discovers that many did not have academic training; yet, through experience, they managed to position themselves among the best. One must ask whether, in a world of equal opportunities, such professional positioning for women will one day be possible.
Originally published in El Economista
— This article was originally published in Spanish by Liliana Martínez Lomelí. Translation generated with AI from the original text.